Monday, April 26, 2010

Ban Against Zhirinovsky

It's my last week in Petrozavodsk and I am awfully busy , so updates on the funky events will resume this friday.Meanwhile , World news !

While the former Kyrgyztan leader seeks refuge in Belarus , Zhirnovsky faces a possible ban by the state duma in Moscow!


The Moscow Times
Ban Against Zhirinovsky Sought in Duma

Ban Against Zhirinovsky Sought in Duma

United Russia is seeking a one-month speaking ban in the State Duma against Vladimir Zhirinovsky, head of the Liberal Democratic Party, for his "rude" criticism of Mayor Yury Luzhkov.

Sevastopol News

The television was moved back into the living room! Since they live on the 1st floor in an apartment surrounded by other buildings , it is difficult to receive signals for the tv channels.So all we have is 1 channel on tv.России 1.My host dad did something to the tv antenna , so now the reception for России 1 is better , but in black and white.

Big thing on the news last night which made him really happy.News about his hometown.Sevastopol,Ukraine!

Friday, April 23, 2010

The Malaysian Student

Russia is a popular country for malaysian students to further their studies and in Petrozavodsk , there is a malaysian student who has been studying here for the past 3 years.Jamie.My Russian grammar teacher ,Katya told Jamie about me and she was keen on meeting me.

An interesting girl who majors in german and english at the Pedagogical University , but intends to return to Malaysia to work after graduation , perhaps in the tourism industry.

Over dinner , i found out that there was actually another Singaporean girl ,Su Lin who studied Russian in Petrozavodsk 6 years ago but left after 3 months of studies!
I wonder what she is working as now!

Monday, April 19, 2010

My Birthday!

While I spent my 22nd birthday last year, sticking candles into the frozen Lake Baikal in Siberia with Selma, my former Dutch roommate and Therese, a friend from Sweden I spent my 23rd birthday with my Russian host Family in Petrozavodsk, Russia this year!

At 23, I have amazing friends from not just Singapore but all around the world. And best of all, I have a cool family that supported my decision to pursue my interests and help me move up a step closer to my dream career. I love my life now and I’m excited about my future.

So here ….Cheers to Life and all the surprises that awaits us all!!

DVDs sold in Petrozavodsk

One of the things I really like about Petrozavodsk is the supermarket Lenta.http://www.lenta.com/
They have a pretty decent range of dvds here. Some of which has English subtitles and only cost 100 rubles (5sgd) .They even have a few bollywood Shah Ru khan movies .

And guess what ,they even have “SING TO THE DAWN” from Singapore!
picture from : http://www.singtothedawn.com/data/W1.jpg


My jaws dropped when I saw the dvds on the racks here. There is only Russian audio, no subtitles and cost 300 rubles.( in the expensive range of dvds) Products from exotic places ( ie Singapore )always cost more.
So it’s not just Food empire products and me .Our movies are in Petrozavodsk too :)

Spring has officially started!

The real spring has finally arrived. The pools of water on the streets have evaporated and the Russians are happily cycling everywhere! It only gets dark around 930pm now.

I never have to feel scared going home late because as summer approaches, the daylight hours increase. And by June, the sun will set at around midnight and rise at around 4am!

Can you see the Russians on the tree?

Speaking to a Foreigner: Lesson 101 for Russians

As a foreigner studying Russian in Russia, I have very often come across Russians (who can’t speak English) who want me to understand everything that they are saying in Russian but to no avail.

image edited by the creative accountant
A guide for Russians on how to make foreigners understand you faster.
1. Use very simple words
2. Speak slowing
3. Just get straight to the point .Don’t explain, we don’t care about explanations until we understand the main gist of your request.
4. Although it may sound like you are ridiculing us by using a stronger tone to emphasize important words, Just do it.
5.If everything fails , use sign language.

And of course if you can only speak and understand Russian, you won’t be able to understand the advice that I just gave

Так , и сейчас по-русски.
Урок 101 как говорить с иностранными людьми
Дорогие русские люди , вы знаете. как трудно иностранным людям изучать русский язык.Если вы хотите нас понимать, пожалуйста , используйте лёгкие слова и говорите не быстро. Нам очень трудно понимать сложные фразы. Важные слова выделяйте громким голосом!

Если мы всё ещё не понимаем , вы можете использовать язык жестов . Эти советы помогут вам и нам и всем людям жить в лучшем мире в будущем.


The Product ,after some help from my russian teacher!

Romeo and Juliet: The Ballet

Like the Nutcracker, it was a full house performance. The Russians really know how to appreciate the arts! But unlike Nutcracker, this ballet performance is more suitable for adults with its mature Shakespearean theme of love and tragedy. You will definitely need good seats right in front to enjoy this ballet. While, nutcracker had bright and cheery costumes and props and can be enjoyed from a seat far from the stage, they kept the costumes and props minimal and toned down for Romeo and Juliet.

A ballet performance is nothing without the orchestra. And there will be no performance without the dancers. In my opinion, a good ballet performance is one where the orchestra plays with utmost emotions and the dancers dance with passion, showing their feelings not only through the meticulously choreographed steps but also through the expressions on their faces. If not for all the people sitting around me, I would have actually started sobbing. The combination of music and dance was absolutely moving.

Knowing fully well that I won’t be able to get similar entertainment in Singapore for the price I am paying in Russia,( 5-15sgd) I went on to buy myself another ticket for the next ballet, Swan Lake.

Although I have already watched it in Moscow, it won’t hurt to watch another interpretation of the story. Right?

Marina – the Russian friend

There are so many people in Russia with the same name and sometimes it is just really confusing saving phone numbers. I have to name them Marina Moscow, Marina Petrozavodsk, Marina Moscow Teacher, Marina Petrozavodsk Teacher etc.And if you say “Marina!” on the streets , the chances of 5 heads turning to respond to you is quite high.

On the train to Murmansk 2 weeks ago, I met a student, my age, from the PSU medical faculty, Marina. My host taught her anatomy during her first year. We met up again last Thursday for a chat. She lives in a small city Kandalaksha up North and only speaks Russian. It’s amazing how she managed to tolerate my consistent grammatically incorrect Russian for 2 hours .Anyway her city is near a beautiful fishing village Varzuga along the coasts of the white sea.( near : means 4 hours by bus/minivan ) Definitely off the beaten track, but the pristine state of nature will be intact. Perhaps if my timetable allows me in June and July, I’ll make a stop in Kandalaksha to visit Marina and the fishing village.

And this time with a better camera!

varzuga
photo from :http://www.kolaflies.com/images/rbrww1.jpg

Karelian Museum

I was really tired of the materials used during conversation class, and requested for one that has more on culture and ethnic groups in the Karelian Republic. My teacher suggested that we go to the museum for Russian lesson! The nice thing about many museums in Russia is that students studying in Russian schools and universities pay students price which sometimes means, free of charge.
So I had a really interesting lesson at the museum last Wednesday. But there is a catch to it. I had to write a report about the visit and about the things I saw in the museum. It is quite difficult to write something interesting when I have forgotten the Russian words for the things that I have seen and even struggled to understand what my teacher was explaining to me at the museum.


Tuesday, April 13, 2010

Free Train and Flight tickets

While discussing about the tragedy of the aeroplane crash which killed quite a few important Polish people, my Russian teacher and I started discussing about travelling. Apparently, the people in Karelia get 44 days of leave from work every year. The number increases for those living up north. People in Murmansk get up to 54 days!

And for the people living in the Karelian republic and work for the state (ie.Teachers at the university, doctors at state hospitals), the state pays for their vacation flight/train tickets! They get this benefit once every 2 years. So if you make a claim for your return flight tickets for 1 trip in 2008, the next time you can make a claim will be in 2010 for a trip made that year.

For train/ flight tickets to anywhere in Russia ,100% is paid for by the state. And you can claim up to a certain percentage from the state for train/flight tickets out of Russia.Cool!

We aren’t sure if that benefit extends to the rest of Russia though. But that’s lot of administrative work to be done and does create more jobs for the accountants. I wonder if they have state auditors. There can potentially be a lot of money swindled off if no one is there to check! They can perhaps make life so much easier for everyone by just doing away with this benefit and just paying people higher salaries. But if that is the case, so many accountants, cashiers and people doing the administrative work will lose their jobs.

Perhaps efficiency is not the best solution for Russia after all.

Monday, April 12, 2010

A sad day for both Russia and Poland

Although travelling by plane is alot faster than by train , this is another reason why most russians rather take train than the plane.
The polish delegation ,along with the president of Poland have died in a planecrash in Russia on their way to to events which marked the 70th anniversary of the massacre of thousands of Polish officers by Soviet secret police in the Katyn forest.
Why did they use a 26 year old soviet Tupolev plane to fly the president?Strange.

Anyway , if you haven't read about it ,here is the link.
Polish leader, 97 dead



Russian Ballet

I was hooked on Russian ballet after watching my first one in Moscow “Beauty and the Beast” by the Bolshoi group. And I went on to catch, Cinderella and Swan Lake in Moscow and Le Sylphide in Saint Petersburg. Most of the time, they have an orchestra playing the music, graceful dancers, beautiful costumes and props. I never had to worry about language barriers since the story is told through dance and music.


Nutcracker was playing in Petrozavodsk! So I had to catch it. Since I bought the tickets a day before the show , there were only 100rouble tickets left (5sgd) for 3rd level back row seats. A huge price difference since I have been paying more than 900 rubles to watch ballet performances in Moscow.

Just before the show, the usher created "new" seats, shifted all the children to the front and I got to sit on the “ghost” seat on the aisle .Good view. An impressive performance and I actually enjoyed it a lot more than the ballet performances put up by the big shot ballet groups in Moscow and Saint Petersburg. I was so impressed that I went down to the counter during the 15 minute break and bought myself a ticket for the next ballet on the 19th.Romeo and Juliet.

I never knew much about the nutcracker story until after I watched the ballet.l And for those who don’t know about the story, here is the link
http://www.nutcrackerballet.net/html/nutcracker_story.html

Musical Theatre ,Republic of Karelia

The Dance troop and the Orchestra.

Baptism for Russian Orthodox Christians

The kids, Tioma and Sasha got baptized on Saturday and I was invited to join the family at the church to watch the ceremony. What an honor! So for the first time, I actually stood through a normal Russian Orthodox Christian church prayer ceremony and later their baptism ceremony. Some of the rituals reminded me of those performed in “Taoist-Buddhist “places that I went to in the past. The big brush used to splash some holy water at the followers, the candles, the chanting and the strong scent in the church.


While the priest chanted, the rest of the people stood, with candles in their hands watching and chanting along. The whole procedure may be an hour, but everyone continued standing, because there are no seats in the church. Majority of the people attending the ceremony were grandmothers. I was exhausted after standing for half an hour and was amazed how these grandmothers were able to stand for such a long time. Bless those legs!

The priest and his helpers then carried this big icon and cross and walk one round outside the church chanting/singing. They pause for awhile right outside the door as the priest walked in flicking everyone with holy water with a big brush/whip. And at the end of the ceremony, everyone was given a big piece of bread.

My teacher emphasized the day before that religion only sprang up after the Soviet Union collapsed.17 years later; the Russians seem to have become extremely religious. I remember being in Saint Petersburg a month ago and seeing a long queue into one of the churches at 715am in the morning. At 930am, the queue was still that long and more than half of the people were grandmothers.

I feel sad whenever I think of the Russian grandmothers, for many of them lost their men to wars and to alcohol. Perhaps having a religion is good for people who really need the support.

Baptism Ceremony
Now this is really interesting because I have never witnessed a baptism ceremony. 15 minutes after the normal prayers have ended, the baptism ceremony begins. It was witnessed by close friends and family members.

The group of people who wanted to get baptized stood in a semi circle behind the priest while the priest chanted. He dipped a brush into some bottle of holy water and “painted” a dot on certain parts of the face, palms and knees. This was done 3-4 times during the baptism ceremony. The Christians-to-be then walked into a room for a short while as the priest continued chanting. Finally, each of them had a bucket of water poured onto their heads and they are given a necklace with a cross on it. The whole process took about 20-40 minutes

Ringing Bells after Easter

I met a Russian lady, Lilia through the internet and we met up for a chat and a walk around the city. She is a really interesting lady who slogs long hours every week so that she can save up and travel the world. She brought me to the Alexandra Nevsky Church, which is the biggest in Petrozavodsk. For the whole week after Easter, the church administrators allow people to go up to the roof and “play” with the bells. It isn’t as easy as it looks and it seriously takes great skill, strength and musical talent to play the bells well!

Karelian Folk Music

The Karelian language is heavily influenced by its Finnish past. But to me, it does not sound like Finnish or Russian. It sounded like a language of its own.

At 6pm last Thursday, the Karelian folk music ensemble had a performance in the university library, free of charge! You had no idea how thrilled I was, especially since I only knew about the performance after I saw the performers strolling into the library at 545pm.

One of the songs reminded me of the songs by some of the ethnic groups in China, while another reminded me of songs sung by church choirs. The others were unique and indescribable. It is a pity that I’ve a problem uploading videos.

Anyway, I have actually watched a Karelian performance and eaten some Karelian food. So, I am no longer upset about not getting an excursion to a Karelian village.

Karelian Food

Different ethnic groups have different crusine. And of course, being in the Karelia republic in Russia, I noticed some interesting food that I haven’t seen in the rest of Russia. My favourite is the Karelian pies, Kalitki.
The Kalitka is a flat pastry filled with either potatoes or rice or some grains. I had the Finnish version with rice and cheese when I was in Tampere, Finland.( Half of the Karealian Republic is in Finland ) An interesting combination but I couldn’t find that version being sold anywhere in Petrozavodsk. The most common version in Russian Karelia is the potato Kalitki.

Although there are many small shops, cafes and supermarkets selling Karelian pies (Kalitki), "Карельская горница" is the only place in Petrozavodsk that has the full menu of Karelian food.
 http://gornica.ru/

Some dishes have up to 1 hour waiting time!
I came here alone the first time and met a really friendly administrator, Yulia and we ended up chatting and exchanging email contacts to stay in touch. She was a singer in a band before this and is now going solo after some conflicts with the band. She speaks Finnish and English too!

The 2nd visit was with Nicola and Alena. (British and Finnish students) and the restaurant had live music on that day as well.Great That was my most expensive meal in Petrozavodsk at 470roubles (25sgd).

Thursday, April 8, 2010

Boys of Russia

Although I see a lot of teenagers and young adults in Petrozavodsk, I rarely see them smoking and drinking.


But whenever I see them drinking their cans of Jaguar( stronger version of red bull ) , beer and smoking cigarettes, I will always think of the 2 boys at home , 5 year old Sasha and 7 year old Tioma. How the two little boys,who cry and shout over everything in front of their parents (but quietly trot to my room every night, closing the door tightly so their parents won’t hear them , play with my phone, draw, ask for chocolates and hug my legs after I returned from Murmansk ) will behave when they grow up.

Excursion headaches

I shared with one of the Russian teachers about my plan to take public buses to various villages and check out some museums relating to the life of the different ethnic groups in Karelia. She advised me to join an excursion instead because it will be more interesting since the whole package comes with traditional food, performances and great company. A big plus since Karelian meals are limited to one restaurant in Petrozavodsk.
So, I’m trying to find excursions to villages of the Karelians and Veps.

Headache 1
“Где находится Туристичесеское агентство? ” (Where is the tourist agency)
Woman at the hotel cloak room “поидёшь туда”, so I walked there and saw hotel rooms and toilets.
I asked the cleaner nearby, “Где находится Туристичесеское агентство?” (Where is the tourist agency)
She points at a door.
Toilet.
Sigh. . My pronunciation is apparently this bad.

Stop laughing; it’s really not funny when you are the one experiencing this.

Headache 2
They only offer tours to groups of 10.It is not the tourist season.

Tourist Agency
I was enquiring about the tours around Karelia at a tour agency near the university. And when they found out that I was from Singapore, the people from the agency got really excited. I guess it is not everyday where you get a Singaporean walking into the tour agencies in the smaller Russian cities, desperate to join some tour. Before I left, the lady told me that she thought Sentosa is beautiful and she dreams about going there. Well, what can I say?
Well done, Singapore Tourism Board!

Easter - Пасха

While I was in Murmansk , the people in Russia celebrated Easter. They boiled eggs , painted them and went to church. Unlike the Americans ,the Russians don’t hide eggs, hard boiled or chocolate and get the children to go looking for them.


The weekend before Пасха , Lenta supermarket was selling eggs at 1 ruble each and each cardholder is entitled to buy 30eggs per day for a certain period of time.So you'll see everyone at Lenta carrying boxes of eggs home.

At Lenta, they were also selling these huge Easter cake-bread for 19 rubles.It tasted like sweet bread gone stale if you don’t heat it up. I think it is suppose to taste like that because it taste exactly the same as the one I had last year on my birthday at Lake Baikal .



When I returned to Petrozavodsk, Tioma and Sasha came running to the door with nicely decorated eggs in their palms. A pity that I was hungry that night and ate them before taking a photo

Wednesday, April 7, 2010

Murmansk – Festival of the North

When people think of Murmansk, they think of the cold port up north. They think of the sailors who lost their life when the submarine sank in 2002. The Russians living in Murmansk also get more benefits and privileges from the government for living up north, a place where most people avoid.


Festival of the North was the reason why I went up to Murmansk. And on 3rd and 4th of April at Cozy Valley, there was reindeer races and ski competitions. The Sami people from Lovozero were bringing their reindeers up to Murmansk to compete! A mix of cool sportsmen and ethic people!

My host in Murmansk is a Russian girl ,Katya.Amazing, chatty and sociable girl whom you can easily mistake for a foreigner because of her perfect English, dress sense and even her apartment design.Lucky me! Katya and her boyfriend drove me up to see Aloysha , the lighthouse and church, so i didnt have to struggle with directions and public transport to get there.

On the day of my arrival , her friends invited themselves to her apartment for a dinner gathering. One of the girls returned back from the UK and it was the first time in 5 years after graduation that all of them were meeting together with a bottle of whisky. So I met some really interesting Russian girls who spoke perfect English. They were studying in the faculty of foreign languages back then.
It is really strange how my impression of Murmansk is a bright cheery and exciting. The Kola Peninsula actually offers some really cool sports and activities for everyone to indulge in both in winter and summer. All it takes is to spend 2 days with a Russian girl who is totally in love with her own hometown to change your first dull impression of Murmansk.

The train rides were long and there were a lot of opportunities to practise speaking Russian. But it was a pure struggle.Anyway some of them said some really interesting things
Petrozavodsk – Murmansk train time: 20 hours
Dedushka Nikolai : Are there camels and a lot of fruit trees in Singapore?
Andrei in his late 20ties “Singapore is near Morocco.” ,Deduska Nikolai huffed, “your geography is so bad.”

Murmansk – Petrozavodsk: 25 hours
I spent the whole morning trying to writing and rewriting my homework about my trip to Murmansk.
At 12pm: Friendly Man, “Why are you always writing? Stop writing, your head needs some rest”
Friendly Man prepares tea. Tea bag, hot water, sugar …………and some vodka
“In Russia, vodka is our national drink, how about Singapore?"
(Do we have a national drink in Singapore?) Stunned by the question, I said, “tea”
Everyone laughed.
He stirred his alcoholic black tea and said, “Do you want to try some Russian tea?”
…..An hour later , he makes more “tea”
“Are you sure you don’t want to try Russian tea?”
He consumed 7 glasses of “tea” with vodka and a whole pack of cigarettes between 8am and 730pm on the train.

After clocking more than 220 hours on the train last year shuttling between Moscow, Saint Petersburg and Siberia, I swore never to take trains for a long time. One year later, I have so far clocked 69 hours on Russian trains in 1 month .And as my head throbbed along the long journey , I kept asking myself why I put myself through the 40+ hour pain to quench my desire to explore the rest of Russia.